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Beach Habitats and Shore Conditions
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BEACH COMBING |
Although I have tried, I have yet to preserve
a complete round collar as left behind by moon shells which
are common all year long. Jackknife clam shells are also
common but I find it hard to keep the two shells from breaking apart
before I get home.
On the South shore beaches slipper shells are usually found attached to other shells and horseshoe crabs,
however on the Long Island Sound beaches they are loose and scattered
everywhere. The necklace-like egg cases of the knobbed whelk are easily found among the seaweed on the beach but I have not found
one with the miniature whelks still inside since I was a child on
the New Jersey shore.
This March I found a nine inch long brown mermaid's purse (a skate egg case) almost twice as long as
the black ones which usually dot the beach. I don't know which species
produced it.
Those of us who live on the Barrier Beach, especially to the west at Gilgo and West Gilgo, can appreciate the dramatic change in connection with the Dune System along Ocean Parkway.
Just a few short years ago,
dunes were nonexistent and in some places the Ocean was virtually
up to the shoulder of Ocean Parkway. Access to the Beach was actually a giant step down with large
portions of the parkway shoulder, including many trees, literally
tumbling into the sea.
The cause of course, is erosion,
and continues today. The
situation became a crisis with Hurricane Gloria in 1985 and several
Northeasters in the early 90s.
The solution came in several
forms. The most important
of which is Beach Nourishment from dredging of the Fire Island Inlet. The placement of this material raised
the grade and widened the beach giving us the lions share
of the security we need to withstand the forces of another major
hurricane that is sure to come.
Despite the fact that Ocean
Parkway is 14 feet above sea level, additional protection is needed. After the open beach, the next line of
protection is the primary and secondary dunes. When these features exist they function
to dissipate wave energy and surge during extreme storm events. Without these features, Ocean Parkway
and the Barrier Island are at risk.
The Town, through the Department
of Environmental Control placed snow fence in strategic locations
to capture windblown sand and create a dune. Behind the snow fence, rows of Xmas trees are carefully placed
so as not to disturb existing vegetation. The combination of fence and trees quickly allows the sand
to accumulate. Once the fence is covered, a new line
of fence is installed at the base of this newly formed Dune. The process is repeated over and over. Once the north and south sides of the dune are formed, vegetation
is planted to hold the sand in place. This is often done by volunteers including children.
The added protection of a
dune 8-10 feet high could make all the difference when the big one
finally comes along. The
point is to protect the integrity of Ocean Parkway and therefore
the bays to the north not to mention our own communities. The cost of the program is negligible especially if one can
imagine the destruction that flooding would cause to all of the
communities along the mainland shoreline since they all are within
one or two feet of Sealevel. Millions, perhaps billions, of dollars
could be wasted if we neglected to create and enhance our dune system.
The Town of Babylon Dune Management
Program is already a great success in that State DOT didnt
have to plow the sand and sweep the Parkway this year as they had
to do just two years ago. In addition, the Town saved a great deal of money reusing
Xmas trees instead of chipping them.
This year, we have applied
to the State for a grant to help us further protect their property
and ours. It is our
intention, if we are approved, to install two miles of fence starting
at the County Line heading East. Once again we will place Xmas trees in strategic locations
and the process starts all over again.
To me, its a great feeling
to drive along Ocean Parkway and see the lush vegetation growing
on a dune that has also become a home for many birds and animals. That at the same time, is also affording
protection to the fragile environment of Great South Bay and thousands
of home on the mainland. Plus
we have taken discarded Xmas trees and recycled them into a beneficial
use.
You can do your share to help
insure our success, please teach your guests and your kids to respect
these dunes and please
GHOSTS AT THE BEACH?
2. Combat between males is much ritualized and rarely ends in physical contact.
3. The large eyes are very sensitive to changes in the intensity of light.
Sallie Phillips, No 3 / 2002
Hermit crabs are abundant all over the world, both in intertidal and subtidal environments. Crustaceans from the family of paguridae, there are 600 or so species of hermit crabs of various colors and sizes.
All hermit crabs lack the armored covering over the hindmost part of their bodies that other crustaceans possess. The soft and vulnerable abdomen, which contains vital organs like the liver and gonads, of the hermit crab is unprotected so the crab keeps its hind section in a borrowed gastropod shell. Most hermit crabs prefer snail shells. Their abdomens are curved and asymmetrical to fit nicely into the spiral shape of snail shells. When threatened, the hermit crab will tuck its entire body into its shell home. Hermit crabs seldom leave their shell, but when they grow too big for their shells they need to find larger homes. It is called molting when they move to a bigger shell. The search for a new home is a challenge. The new shell must be the right shape and large enough to accommodate growth but not too heavy to tote around. The move to the new shell is done quickly since the crab is very vulnerable when totally out of its shell.
Most hermit crabs have one claw (cheliped) which is larger that the other. This is used, among other things, as a front door to the crab's home. The claw is molded into the shape of the opening of the shell to provide a good seal. This molding can only occur when the crab's claw is soft, which is during molting. This larger claw is on the right and it is used for defense and holding food. The left, smaller claw, which is a different shape, is used for climbing and getting food into the mouth. Both claws have pincers, with one moveable finger and one fixed. Hermit crabs are omnivores; they will eat almost anything and they are scavengers, scrounging for scraps along the water bottom. Most hermit crabs feed at night.
Hermit crabs have 4 antennae, which are used for sensing: 2 extending beyond the claws and 2 shorter than the eye stalks. There are 4 pairs of legs: 2 for walking and 2 to move the crab's body in its shell and remove waste and sand from the shell. The latter 2 pair of legs are concealed in the home shell except when the hermit crab molts. The 2 claws and 8 legs are called pereiopods and are so numbered on each side 1 through 5. If any of the hermit crab's legs are broken off, a new one will regenerate at the time it molts. As mentioned, the crab's lower body is curved and asymmetrical. Along the outer curve are pleopods, little appendages which help the crab to hold on to the inside of its shell.
Hermit crabs are sometimes seen dragging around another shell. Sometimes this is the next lodging, but sometimes it is a male dragging around a female. The male will pull along his future mate until she is ready to molt. That is the only time that she is receptive and the male can fertilize her eggs. The female hermit crab will lay thousands of eggs which will stick to her abdomen. She fans them with her pleopods which flushes oxygen-rich water over them. In about a week the eggs will hatch into free swimming larvae. After several molts the larvae start to search for shell homes and begin their adult lives. A very small percentage of the larvae make it to the adult phase, as they are prey to a large variety of marine life.
There are examples of symbiotic relationships between hermit crabs and other species. Often a colony of polyps grows on the surface of the hermit's shell and creates a rough layer over it. The polyps benefit from the crumbs of the hermit crab's meals and the hermit profit from the protection of the polyps' nettles. Sometimes the hermit will host sea-anemones, which have stingers, or sponges, which provide camouflage. When moving to a new shell the crab can also transplant its guests to the new home.
Of the hundreds of species of hermit crabs, most are marine creatures. There are a few that some or all of their time is spent on land.
The textbook description of
a beach includes distinctions between the lower beach, middle beach,
upper beach, primary dune and secondary dune. But, the reality is, in many cases, along New York's Atlantic
Coast there is precious little beach, period, and any dune is better
than no dune.
Dunes are nothing more than
unstable hills of sand which are the results of the combined action
of wind and time. Formed
in the same way as snowdrifts, they build up when the wind, carrying
sand, is slowed down by an obstacle such as a fence or driftwood
and deposits the sand
on the leeward side. Dunes can gradually increase in size if
they are well anchored by vegetation or man-made barriers and kept
undisturbed. But, the
same winds which create dunes will move them along to another location
if they are left bare. The
winds during the recent winter tried to move the dunes of Jones
Island onto Ocean Parkway.
Dune preservation and stabilization
is a very difficult task in high use areas. Grasses and other vegetation do an excellent
job of trapping and keeping the wind-blown sand in place, but any
traffic, even walking, can destroy the growth. Save the Beaches Fund has conducted several
beach grass, rugosa rose and bayberry plantings in barrier beach
dunes, only to find wide swaths beaten down by the end of the beach
season. Babylon's D.E.C. Commissioner, Ron Kluesener,
prefers a combination of snow fencing and Christmas trees to trap
the sand and maintain the dunes. Unfortunately, the snow fence is easily dismantled by beach-goers
traipsing across the dunes.
STBF President, Mario DeLuca,
recently back from North Carolina's outer beaches, has photos of
Ping-Pong table-sized sand bags piled up seaward of the dunes. Another technique he observed was large
rubber mats applied along the dunes. We've also heard of a sand-gel product which reputedly prevents
dunes from blowing away.
The disappearance of dunes
is a common problem in coastal areas all over the world. Travelers report spotting "KEEP OFF THE
DUNES" signs in many languages in many countries. In most locales, natural plantings are
a common method of dune preservation, but it's not an easy solution. Plant species adaptable to the direct
sun, strong winds, and fast draining environment are limited and
take time to establish well. And as previously mentioned, people trampling down the growth
can create a blowout for sand in a fraction of the time it takes
to establish a healthy stand of vegetation.
Is the solution fences, Christmas
trees, sand bags, structures, mats, chemicals, education, signs,
enforcement, or plantings? Hopefully, the solutions lie therein; and hopefully, the
necessary funds to solve the problems will be made available
reprinted from The Fire
Island Tide with the permission of the author and the editor.
While the entire length of Fire Island experienced shoreline erosion during the December 1992 Noreaster, on closer inspection we find that there are several areas in particular, Old Inlet, Water Island, Point OWoods and Fair Harbor, that had a much greater amount of erosion compared to the rest of Fire Island.
Even several months after the storm, the
beach in these areas had recovered less than the rest of the Fire
Island shoreline. This
raises an interesting question, why are some areas of Fire Island
hot spots of erosion?
The fact that some areas of Fire Island appear to be hot spots of erosion has important consequences for a beach restoration project. Clearly, unless the hot spots together with their underlying cause or causes are addressed, then the chances of a beach restoration project being successful over the long term in these areas will be lessened to some degree.
For example, if the location of a future
hot spot could be identified, it may be possible for the beach and
dune system in that area to be built larger prior to its formation
so as to reduce the amount of damage when it does form. In addition, it may also be necessary to address the cause
of the hot spot as well as the erosion at the site. This will require that we understand the conditions that
cause erosion hot spots to form, their behavior and dynamics once
they form, and where they are likely to develop.
There are two fundamental
conditions that can cause hot spots to form: either the wave energy
is greater than average in a localized area or there is a localized
reduction in sand supply. Increased wave energy means that more beach sediment can
be eroded and carried away. A reduction is sand supply will cause
a sand deficit that can only be made up by increased erosion. There are several coastal processes that
can create these two conditions and they may not be the same for
all hot spots.
A break in the offshore
bar is perhaps the most commonly invoked explanation of erosion
hot spots. The offshore bar is located 500 to 1500
feet off the beach and runs parallel to the shore. It is located in about 20 feet of water
and rises up from the bottom between 10 and 15 feet. The offshore bar plays an important role
in protecting the beach from wave damage because as waves pass over
it, they lose some of their energy because of increased friction. The less energy a wave has, the less erosion
it can cause. A break
in the offshore bar means that waves can reach the shore at full
strength and the wave energy will be focused over a relatively narrow
area of shoreline. A hot spot will thus form inshore of the
break.
There are several possible
causes of breaks in the offshore bar. During a storm for example, a large volume of water is pushed
over the offshore bar and accumulates between the beach and the
bar. Once the water elevation has reached a
critical height, gravity will force the water to flow back offshore
over the offshore bar. If
the flow is concentrated in a small area of the bar, the velocity
of the flow will be much greater than if the flow was spread out
over the entire length of the bar and a channel through the bar
will be scoured out. The channel will provide unimpeded access
for waves to strike the beach. Further exacerbating the erosion of the shore line, the concentrated
outgoing flow of water will cause additional amounts of sand to
be carried offshore.
A second possible cause of
a break in the offshore bar is that there are remnant channels of
historic inlets across Fire Island. Inlets scour out channels through the offshore bar that may
persist even after the inlet has closed. It has been will documented that inlets have opened and closed
along the barrier beach and the hot spots may reflect their location
or where their channels have migrated along the beach due to the
longshore transport.
Historic inlets may also play
a somewhat different role in hot spot formation. The ebb tidal deltas (sand deposits in
the ocean outside of an inlet) of the former inlets may provide
a slightly greater supply of sand to localized areas of the beach. These areas will have reduced erosion
compared to the rest of the beach which then appear to be hot spots. Ebb tidal deltas are located west of Old
Inlet, and off Davis Park/Watch Hill and the Sunken Forest.
Edge waves have
also been suspected as the cause of erosion hot spots. Unlike breaking waves, whose crests are
approximately parallel to the beach, the crests of edge waves travel
along the shore. Edge
waves are not easily observed because they have a long period and
wavelength and do not break as they travel. When edge waves co-occur with incoming waves, a pattern of
alternating higher and lower wave heights develops along the shore. Wherever wave
heights are enhanced by the interaction, increased erosion will
occur and create a hot spot.
There are also large scale
differences in the erosion rate of Fire Island so that the entire
west end can be considered an erosion hot spot relative to the east
end. Historically, the west end of Fire Island
has a much greater rate of erosion than the east end. From Democrat Point to just east of Ocean
Beach, the rate of erosion is approximately 12 feet per year while
for Ocean Beach to Old Inlet the rate is about 1.2 feet per year
and there have been periods of both erosion and accretion. From Old Inlet to Moriches Inlet the erosion rate is 2 feet
per year.
This east-west differential
may be due either to differences in the orientation of the shoreline
relative to incoming waves or the offshore bottom topography both
of which can result in along shore differences in wave energies. Although Fire Island is generally assumed to be straight
and oriented in an east-west direction, it actually bulges seaward
to the west of Old Inlet. As a result, waves striking the beach west of Old Inlet are
at a somewhat different angle to the shoreline than waves east of
Old Inlet. In addition,
this bulge coincides with a seaward bulge in the 90 foot depth contour
and because the 90 foot contour is further offshore, waves would
have a greater distance over which to reorganize and gain energy. Either of these two possibilities could
be the cause of somewhat greater wave energies and hence erosion
on the west end of Fire Island.
The pattern of erosion along
the shoreline caused by the December Noreaster does not appear
to be unique to this storm. For example, of the 125 homes damaged and destroyed by the
Good Friday Noreaster of 1962, which was, up until the December
storm, the most devastating Noreaster to strike Fire Island,
nearly all were west of Fire Island Pines. Most of the damage occurred in Fire Island Pines. Point OWoods and Dunewood to Seaview
Fair Harbor escaped with two homes destroyed and six damaged. This suggests the cause of the erosion
hot spots may be a large scale geographic feature that is also stable
over time.
There are several studies
that could be initiated to develop a better understanding of Fire
Islands erosion hot spots. One would be to conduct a bathymetric survey of the offshore
bar to see if its bathymetry can be related to the location of the
hot spots. A second
study would be to compare wave frequency and size in front of hot
spots with non-hot spots areas. A historical review of the location and movement of hot spots
using aerial photographs may also yield useful information.
Hot spots have one other,
perhaps less apparent, implication for Fire Island and that is the
determination of setbacks for development. If the erosion rate for the entire beach is based on, or
biased towards, what is occurring at hot spots, then the setbacks
will be much greater than if the erosion rates in non-hot spots
were used. How the
erosion rates in hot spots will be incorporated in establishing
setbacks will be of considerable importance.
This article is not about
saving beaches but about saving lives at the beach.
On May 31 the newspapers carried
a story about a dreadful swimming accident the preceding day at a beach in Florida. An 11-year-old boy
was having trouble getting back to shore, and three women and a
man swam out to try to rescue him. All five of them drowned. According
to the story, they had been caught in an undertow.
Such stories are a hazard
to other lives. For most people the word "undertow" means a strong
current that runs outward and downward all along a beach. You often
hear people at the beach say: "There's a strong undertow today."
But oceanographers who study waves and beaches will tell you that
there is no such current, at least one that extends all along a
beach.
How can this be? Practically
everyone who goes into the water at the beach has at times felt
an outward current they could swear was an undertow. But the current
they feel is not an undertow. It is a rip current. The difference
may seem just a matter of words, except for one important thing:
a rip current is at most only a few yards wide. It does not extend
all along the beach, running out to sea wherever you go into the
water.
A rip current can be quite
powerful when a strong surf is running. The best of swimmers can
have trouble making headway when they swim directly into one. The
important thing is that since the rip current is only a few yards
wide, you can get out of it simply by swimming a few yards parallel
to the shore. In fact, in a few yards you will often encounter
an incoming current that will bring you back to shore all on its
own.
What makes a rip current?
If you look along a beach at the edge of the water, you will usually
see that the beach is not flat. It undulates in a series of gently
sloping hills and valleys. When waves break along the shore, the
water tends to run back to the sea down the valleys, not the hills.
This return flow is the rip current.
You can observe rip currents
without danger in an ordinary surf. If the beach has an undulating
contour, you can see that the water in an incoming wave tends to
circle away from the hills and run down into the valleys. If you
stand in shallow water at the seaward end of one of the valleys,
you will feel the outward flow tugging at your ankles. If you walk
a few feet parallel to the beach until you are standing just offshore
from one of the hills, you will feel a much weaker outward flow,
if you feel any at all.
It is sometimes said that
words can kill. The five people who died in Florida, at least the
four adults, probably believed that they were fighting an undertow,
and when they tried to swim directly into the outward current, they
lost the struggle. If they had known it was not a so‑called
undertow but a rip current, they could have swum just a short distance
parallel to the shore and saved their lives.
Dennis Flanagan is a science
journalist
Whether youre a surfer
checking our the waves for the best ride or a beach walker just
enjoying the relaxation of the steady movement, wave contemplation
is an ageless pastime. Fueled
by sun and wind and shaped by the ocean floor waves are capable
of inducing soothing meditation or devastation likened to a small
nuclear weapon. They can make a beach disappear overnight
or create a new one in the next season.
While waves may interact with
tides they have nothing to do with tides. They are almost entirely the product of
winds. So-called tidal
waves are caused by undersea earthquakes or landslides, not
tides.
When wind blows across the surface of water, friction causes ripples to form.
If the wind power is sufficient and prolonged, the ripples will develop into wave lengths that last at least five seconds.
As the newly formed waves leave the fetch (the area of open ocean over which wind blows), they become organized into even lines of swells that spread our with increasing speed toward the shore.
Moving through the ocean, swells cause water particles at the surface to spin in a circular orbit helping to maintain the wave action. As these water particles go deeper their orbit diameter decreases.
Heading into shallower areas, the swells
slow down and their wave length shortens. The swells also grow steeper in height, as less water is
available to fill in the crest and maintain a symmetrical shape. The increasingly shallow bottom prevents
the complete rotation of the circulating water particles and causes
the waves to become unstable. The peak up and break, crashing near the shore in a foamy
surf.
While the Physics of coastal
waves was understood by 19th Century scientists, it has only been
in the last 50 years that scientists have studied waves in the wild,
making measurements and recording observations.
Predicting specific waves
is virtually impossible. Surfers
and beachcombers may think they know what to expect, but theres
rarely a dependable sequence. The ninth wave thats always the biggest is a myth. A killer wave may appear out of nowhere in a calm sea. Almost any wave striking the beach is
probably a combination of numerous waves.
Satellite tracking has greatly
improved the capability to observe waves and make forecasts. Still, waves and their random complexity
are only partially understood, even by engineers designing jetties
and shore protection plans. One thing is predictable, however, each wave is slightly
different from the last and there will always be another.
Sallie Phillips, No 3 / 2000
I recall, in the good (?) old
days that receptacles filled with sand were left in many public
places for people to put out their burning cigarette butts. Since stuffing something burning into sand instantly douses
the light, it was an effective means of cigarette disposal. Obviously, many people still use the same
method but on our wonderful beaches. Don’t we all know that
anything left on the beach will someday end up in our rivers, bays
or oceans? We should!
Anyone who has ever participated in a beach cleanup
can attest to the fact that cigarette filters account for a significant
percentage of the non-biodegradable items collected from the beaches. “Audubon” reports that more that 800,000 cigarette
butts were among the debris collected and counted in the United
States during the 1999 International Coastal Cleanup Day. And add that to the many collected and
not counted.
Nowadays people, no longer allowed to smoke indoors,
stand on curb edge and toss their butts onto sidewalks and into
gutters. These then end up in storm drains and
eventually into our water ways. Things carelessly tossed out of a car window, be they cigarette
butts or plastic wrappers, as insignificant as they may seem, may
eventually end up in our water ways or on our beaches.
OK, why are these almost unnoticeable items so
harmful when in our waterways? These floatable bits, like candy wrappers, cigarette filters,
remnants of Styrofoam cups, etc. look like food to seabirds, sea
turtles, fish and marine mammals. And, once these pieces get ingested they
stick in the animal’s digestive tract or stomach and can lead to
the animal’s death. The
debris can block the digestive tract, either directly or as a regurgitate
mass, causing the animal’s demise. Or, the non-food items ingested can cause a false feeling
of fullness in the animal thus denying the animal the nutrients
necessary for survival.
In a survey, which was reported in “Audubon”, 92%
of the respondents were aware that the health of the oceans affects
them directly but only 14% knew that runoff from streets, parking
lots, etc. accounts for most of the pollution in our oceans. WE are the cause! WE must be the solution!
PLEASE PUT
TRASH IN THE PROPER RECEPTACLES
PLEASE!
Preserve and Protect our Beaches.

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